12: Gorakhshep to Pheriche - Where the Mountains Get Bigger and the Air Gets Thinner!

Day 12 (7/Apr/2026): Gorakshep (5170m) to Pheriche (4200m)

Memories from our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) 

Not only did I have trouble falling asleep, I also had a slightly disturbed sleep. When I stepped out of the room in the morning around 5AM, I bumped into Sonam Dai. He was looking for the members who were to join for Kala Pathar. Unfortunately, I had no idea on the rooms allocated to our group. Usually all our rooms were next to each other, but here the group was scattered across different areas of the tea house. Later when we gathered for breakfast got to know Rupal had a very bad AMS. Megha who was Rupal’s roomie had to get support from the AP team in the night. Thankfully Sam had decided to stay back because of bad weather and was around to help. Yogesh, Sanjeev, Shobita and Gowthami who had earlier planned to go for Kala Pathar also dropped out for various reasons – bad headache, tired, lack of sleep etc. Like Pankaj and me, Hyderabad gang had decided the previous night that they would not be joining to Kala Pathar. So, eventually no one from the group went to Kala Pathar. 

 

It was a bright and sunny day. The melting snow from the roof of tea house had frozen halfway and formed beautiful spikes. The ground around the tea house looked beautiful with fresh snow shining in the sunlight. The skies were clear blue with the snow mountains right outside the tea house. There was a statue of Chatrapati Shivaji in the courtyard of ‘The Himalayan Lodge’. We had completely missed seeing this the previous day. Apparently, this was installed in 2012 by a Pune based mountaineering club to honour and acknowledge the invaluable contributions of the local Sherpa community. 

Shivaji Statue @ The Himalayan Lodge

After breakfast we took some group pictures with Shivaji statue shouting the slogans ‘Jai Shivaji Jai Bhavani’ with full team spirit. This was our final day at this high altitude. We also took a bunch of pictures with backdrop of mountains right outside the tea house. 

 

Around 9am we started our hike back. We were now 11 trekkers and 3 guides. Rupal had taken a chopper from Gorakshep to Lukla. Sam had also left early in the morning. Though we would be descending, it was going to be another long day. I think the hike back is not as exciting as the onward hike – especially if it’s the same path on return. Once you are done with the summit, I don’t know why the urge is there to reach back to the base and return home at the earliest. As we were still at very high altitude, we continued to walk slowly. Though cold, the weather was good with clear skies – which was a boon considering how bad the weather was the previous evening.

 

At one point Shobita felt a little uneasy and dizzy. With a little bit of rest, she was fine and back on the track. Though we were descending, there were a few sections where we had to climb up and hike down. I felt the ascends more tiring today than the previous day. With slow and steady pace reached ‘The Oxygen’ tea house at Labouche. This was our stop for a short tea break before heading down. Just 2 days ago we were here for a night halt to go towards EBC. The tea house now seemed very different – it was very quite at this hour as it was just our group. 

 

We had our tea/GLTs and back on the trail. Since we were descending, I was now able to walk at a relatively faster speed than before. Somewhere before Thukla pass, I might have twisted my right ankle. I didn’t realise it. I continued walking but in a particular angle it was hurting. I tried adjusting my legs to not exert pressure on the pain point. Because of this my hip started hurting. I told Dorchi Dai, that my ankle was hurting. He helped me tie the ankle band. This gave me temporary relief. I had to slow down my pace due to the pain. Crossing Thukla pass and descending towards Kala Pathar lodge for lunch would have been a relatively easy hike compared to what we had gone through on the onward hike. But due to my sprain, it didn’t seem any easy. Only saving grace was the weather, which so far had been good - bright and sunny.

 

 

Finally reached Kala Pathar Lodge for lunch. Hot aloo parathas were ready. Other group members had almost finished with their lunch. I removed my shoes to check how the ankle looked. There was a slight swelling in the ankle. On our lunch table, there was a young solo trekker from B’lore who had also finished EBC and was going towards Pheriche. She helped me with the Volini pain relief spray and tying back the ankle band. I was amazed to know that she did this trek by herself – no shrepas, no guides. Pain relief spray seemed to help. We quickly had lunch and got back on the trail. Others who had finished lunch, had already got on the trail with Sonam Dai and Chirring.

Post lunch the weather started to get a bit cloudy and windy. The pain was manageable when I walked at a slow pace. Soon the cloudy weather paved into a drizzle and our ponchos were out again. For large part of this trail section, Sanjeev and Shobita were also with us. When my pace further slowed down, they went ahead. It was me, Pankaj and Dorchi dai. As we reaching Periche the land got flatter and seemed like a huge open ground.

 

We saw a bunch of Yak herds. Dorchi dai told us about how the villagers managed the yaks in winter months. Thankful to Dorchi Dai to have stayed and supported me through this until Periche. I thought everyone had reached way before us but looks like they had reached the tea house in Periche ahead of us only by 15-20 minutes. The trail back from Thukla pass to Periche was not very strenuous. Had I not sprained my leg, it would have been easier. Descending to lower altitude gives better oxygen levels and the sense that you are getting closer to the end of trek gives a mixed feeling of relief, happiness and sadness. 

 

Our stay here was at the Periche Resort. Now that we were on a relatively lower altitude and had successfully done most part of the trek, everyone was relaxed. The Hyderabad gang had already decided they would be taking the heli back to Lukla next day morning. They had also booked their ride back. So they were in party mood as this was officially the last day of the trek. Considering my leg pain, Pankaj and I were also leaning towards taking the heli back. Pankaj discussed the situation with Sam. He suggested if the pain is bad it’s better to take the heli to avoid further pain to the leg. We too had to decide quickly because apparently the heli rides get full quickly and we might not get a slot. Pankaj and I decided we will take the heli back. When we discussed this with Sanjeev and Shobita, they too decided to join us. Pankaj went ahead and confirmed 4 seats for heli ride back to Lukla. Cost of spraining the leg was too high - this costed us a bomb 375$ per person😢.

Now that we were not hiking back and taking the heli to Lukla, it was our final trekking day too. Gowthami and Megha decided to complete the trek. Hats off to both of them - they stood strong and trekked next two days inspite of all the weather challenges they had to go through. More power to them💪💪.

The evening turned out one of the most memorable evenings. Kukri (Nepali Rum) was ordered. Everyone was in a party mood. Lots of laughter and chatting on the memories of the trek. As a group we decided to felicitate all the sherpas and trek leads who had been and supported us through and through for the last 11-12 days. Without them we could not have had such an amazing experience. We shared our token of appreciation to each one of them. It was a very emotional evening. It was hard to digest that tomorrow morning all of us will break into groups and go different ways. Couldn’t believe after months of planning and training this is ending. It was very heart wrenching.

 

Evening filled with fun

The evening was full of masti. We partied, ate, played and laughed as a group one last time. As per the tea house rules, we winded up by 10pm and got back to our rooms.

 

13: Pheriche to Lukla to Kathmandu - Where the Mountains Get Bigger and the Air Gets Thinner!

Day 13 (8/Apr/2026): Pheriche to Lukla to Kathmandu

Memories from our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) 

Morning was as usual. Wakeup, get ready, pack all the stuff in the duffle bags and go for breakfast. Except today, post breakfast instead of hike, we would be taking the chopper to Lukla and if all goes well, a flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. We never know how things will fan out today. We had our breakfast and were awaiting messages from Sam & Ghanshyam, who were trying their best to get us to Kathmandu safely. AP team had booked the chopper and were also trying to get us direct flights from Lukla to Kathmandu instead of flying to Ramechhap and then a road journey to Kathmandu.   

@Pheriche - before we all dispersed

 

Since Hyderabad gang had booked there chopper first, they were first in queue for the chopper which was scheduled for 8:30am. Meanwhile, Gowthami and Megha along with Sonam dai bid goodbye and started their hike to Namche Baazar. Dorchi dai and Chirring stayed back to ensure we got our heli ride back and the join the hiking group to Namche Baazar.

Pheriche Lodge - Common Area

 

The helipad was just a few meters away from the tea house. Hyderabad gang bid goodbye and left to the helipad. With nothing to do, after a few minutes we too left to the helipad to see how the chopper hovers in the valley and take some pictures. Couple of choppers came, dropped some boxes and left for Gorakshep. This is how things work in mountains. One needs to have a lot of patience. Weather is unpredictable and plays a big role. 

 

It was getting hot outside, and my leg was hurting too. Pankaj and I came back to the tea house. Later got to know that the chopper which came to pick Hyderabad gang already had a passenger. So, only 4 of them could board. Yogesh stayed back and he would be joining us in the second lot. Sanjeev, Shobita, Yogesh, Pankaj and I were in the tea house waiting for our call.

 

Around 9:30am Chirring came and told us we need to assemble at the helipad. With all the hope to get our ride soon we collected all our belongings and walked to the helipad. Here we again meet the Australian family. One of the kids got very sick at Gorakshep because of which they took the helicopter to go back to Lukla. But the chopper now had dropped them here at Perchi and they were waiting to get the ride to Lukla. Really don’t know how these choppers optimise the rides.

 

After waiting for half an hour or soon, a chopper came and yes it was the one we would be boarding. Sanjeev sat in the front with the pilot and we four sat in the back. All buckled the helicopter too off. Soon we could see the trail we had taken all these days to reach Periche. It was so beautiful. I couldn’t fathom that we had walked all this. I really felt proud of this accomplishment. On the onward trek Pankaj and I had many times discussed on how the return trek would more enjoyable as we would have done with the summit. The return trek was cut short by 2 days because of the sprain and we got another kind of fun doing this via helicopter😃.

Parts of EBC Trail from Heli

 

The ride from Periche to Lukla only takes15-20 minutes. The wait time to get onto the chopper is much more than the actual ride time. Soon the chopper was descending in Lukla and we could clearly see the famous short airstrip of Lukla. Dorchi dai’s wife and a sherpa were already waiting for us at Lukla. Amazing coordination in the AP team. Dorchi dai’s wife helped us collect our bags and was going to guide us to the Lukla airport and ensure we get on the flight to Kathmandu without any hassles. The heli port was a little away from the airport. We had to walk about 500 meters through Lukla village to enter the airport. Now each one had to carry our own duffle bags. Since I had sprained my leg, sherpa carried my bag. Shobita and Dorchi dai’s wife together carried the load of Shobita’s bag. Pankaj, Sanjeev and Yogesh carried their own duffle bags. I now had even more respect and gratitude to the sherpas who carried our duffle bags for all these days. I could see how difficult it was to carry the bags and walk.

We got to the airport which was very tiny. Got our boarding passes, luggage checked in, security was minimal (very similar to Ramechap airport) – everything done in 10min. Luckily with all the efforts of Ghanshyam and Sam, our tickets were for a direct flight from Lukla to Kathmandu - phew what a relief. Now in the airport waiting area the wait starts. Nobody knows when the next Summit air flight will come and even if it comes will the weather be good enough to fly to Kathmandu. We had gained some wisdom traveling in the mountains. Patience is the key. If all goes well we will fly else we stay back in Lukla – we were mentally prepared for it. The waiting area of Lukla airport is small but beautiful. The windows overlook the mountains, and the walls have huge photographs of mountains. The photos are spectacular!

While we wait in anticipation of our flight, we meet the Australian family again. Gather one of their kid got sick at Gorakshep and they had to take the heli back. They were also waiting for their flight back to Kathmandu. After a few minutes of waiting, we were thrilled to see a Summit airline flight landing at Lukla. We were hopefully that this is the flight to Kathmandu and we would be boarding it soon. The wait until we were called for boarding felt like never ending. The weather was getting cloudy and we knew if it’s not now then we might end up staying in Lukla.

The wait was finally over, and we were called for boarding. Again, while we were happy that we were boarding, it was not done until the flight took off. Five of us (Pankaj, me, Sanjeev, Shobita and Yogesh) boarded the flight. We were the only 5 passengers on this flight along with some vegetables and other items which were being transported to Kathmandu. To ensure the flight is balanced, the air-hostess made some changes to where we were seated. Around noon, the flight took off and that is when it reality hit that we were going to Kathmandu. Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu takes about 30 min. I sat quietly looking out of the window, soaking all the beauty of the mountains one last time, knowing this might be the last time I will be flying from Lukla. It’s a very weird feeling when you realise you might not visit a place again…

After the flight landed, we took the shuttle to the airport. The attendant on the shuttle told us this was the last flight of Summit airline from Lukla to Kathmandu. The weather had worsened and all flights were cancelled. We just made it in time. After collecting our bags got into the AP van to take us back to ‘La Mustang’ hotel.

We were super delighted to see Sam and Ghanshyam at the hotel lobby. Gave them a quick update on the last two days (though they already knew everything :)). Soon Rupal also joined. She was feeling much better. Hyderabad gang had reached before us and had left for lunch. With all the excitement and anxiety, we hadn’t realised how hungry we were. We quickly freshened up and decided to go straight to have lunch. Sam suggested a couple of good places and infact came to drop us to the lunch place. We ordered a bunch of north Indian dishes and ate to our heart content. Shobita, Sanjeev and Yogesh decided to visit the ‘Pashupati Nath Temple’. My ankle was still hurting. Pankaj and I decided to go back to the hotel and rest.

A group meet was planned later in the evening. Everyone gathered at the terrace. Everyone who had returned to Kathmandu was here. It was such a beautiful evening to see everyone glowing with pride to have done the EBC trek. Sam handed us our trek completion certificates and copy of his book ‘What’s your Everest?’. As he called each one of us, he spoke something unique and beautiful of that person and then handed over the certificate and book. It was a very sweet gesture. Made the evening so much more memorable. This evening also marked the formal end of this trek. Next morning we would all disperse on our own paths. Being together for the last thirteen days, sharing this amazing journey, the group became an extended family and will always remain a beautiful memory.

After all the goodbyes, it was time to finish final errands. Emptied the duffle bags and returned them to Ghanshyam. We later went to return the jackets we had rented. Pankaj was trying to find a good place for dinner. After walking around Thamel for a bit, Shobita, Sanjeev, Pankaj and I ended up going to a Mediterranean restaurant right across La Mustang hotel. Food here was delicious. After a hearty meal, went back to our rooms for a good night sleep.