Hoover Dam & Zion National Park - A Journey Through Nature's Wonders across American Southwest

September 14th: Hoover Dam & Zion National Park

Our next stop was Hoover Dam (HD). We picked some take away breakfast from Starbucks at the rental at Las Vegas airport, picked our rental car and started our drive. HD is about 45 min drive from Las Vegas airport.

Hoover Dam

Our first stop was the walk across the Hoover Dam View Bridge. It's a 5 min walk from the car parking to the bridge. Though it was hot, the strong wind made it tolerable. We got some breathtaking views of the dam and the Colorado River from the Dam View Bridge.

Plant Tour

 

Following this, we parked our car at the visitor center and purchased tickets to Plant Tour, a 30 min guided tour. The tour starts with a short movie covering the history of the dam, followed by the guided tour to the generators through the tunnels. This short tour, gives a good overview of the dam.

Post the tour, we walked on the dam. The dam is so deep, it's quite scary when we bend to see at the view points. We then grabbed a quick lunch at the visitor center cafe. They did have a couple of vegetarian options which was a relief of us.

 

 

After spending about 3 hours at the Hoover dam, we set off on a scenic drive towards Zion National Park (ZNP). ZNP is about 190 miles - 3 hour drive from HD. ZNP is in Utah and in different timezone than Las Vegas (Nevada). The drive is through vast open landscape pretty much nothing around. 

Drive to Zion National Park

All national parks in USA have an entry fee. We can either pay per national park or buy a annual pass at 80$ which will give access to all the 63 national parks. Since we were planning to visit multiple national parks, purchasing the annual pass was best. The annual pass can be purchased at any national park or REI stores. Once pass gives access to one car/people in the car. 

Zion Lodge is the only place within the national park. One needs to book very early to get accommodation here. There are a bunch of good options in Springdale which is the close to ZNP and easily accessible by shuttle.  

Bumbleberry Inn, Springdale

Around sunset, we arrived at the charming Bumbleberry Inn in Springdale, our stay for the night. The orange/red colors of setting sun added more to beauty to the rocky mountains of ZNP. After checking in, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Oscar's Café, indulging in the local flavors. A quick stop at Sol Market allowed us to stock up on snacks and essentials for our road trip before a restful night.S

September 15th: Exploring Zion National Park

Morning started with a hot & yummy breakfast at the Inn. They have a nice cafe where our complimentary breakfast was served. After breakfast we picked trekking poles from the Inn. Most lodgings here provide complimentary trek poles which are to be returned at the end of the day after the hike.

Springdale shuttle stop to ZNP visitor center was right opposite the Inn. We tool the shuttle to ZNP visitor center and there boarded the ZNP shuttle.  These shuttles are every 5-10 min and are most convenient to access all the points on ZNP. Infact, ZNP can be explored only via the shuttle. 

While restrooms and water filling stations are available at all ZNP shuttle stops, there are no food joints/cafes on any stops other than the visitor center and at Zion Lodge. So good to carry food depending on how much time you want spend in the park.

ZNP scenic drive is one of the most beautiful drives and is only accessible by the shuttle. Choose a window seat to get some amazing views on this scenic drive. 

Our first stop on the ZNP shuttle was Stop #6. We planned to do the lower and middle emerald pools on the Grotto/Kayenta trail. This is approximately 2.5 miles/4 KMs easy hike and it took us about 2hrs to complete.

We planned the Emerald pool hike in the first half of the day to avoid the heat. Heat in south-west America is at a different level. The sun is sharp and the wind is cool. So cap/hat, sun glasses, water and light jacket are a must when in outdoors.

 

 

On this trail we got some great views of the gigantic rocky mountains and a thin stream of virgin river flowing along the trail path. Unlike the view points, hiking gives an opportunity to get fully immersed in the surroundings and be part of it.

Emerald Pool

 Emerald pools are nothing but a tiny pool of water formed from the flowing water. Because of the moss/algae in the water, the pools look green and hence the name. There is nothing great about the pools as such, it's a great break-point on the hikes as the water flowing over the rocks to form these pools is very cool and refreshing.

The hike offered us beautiful views of Zion’s waterfalls and pools. We spent some time at the pools soaking in the surrounding and started hiking back to the trail head. The trails here are rocky, uneven and muddy. Having good shoes and trekking pole helped.

Unlike the trails in India, the trails here have no litter, there are washrooms, water and rest area facilities, people are mindful about co-hikers, nobody is playing loud music and more important no place is as crowded as in India. Hiking experience in USA is very different and serene. To get a similar experience in India, we will have to hike an unknown trail :)

 

 

 

After a small snack break, we headed to our next hiking - 'The Narrows'. This is a 16 mile hike in the Virgin river. The trail starts from the last stop of the shuttle - the Temple of Sinawava. From here it's a 1.2 mile / 2 KMs Riverside walk (mud pathway) before we enter the river/narrows.  Doing the entire 16 mile hike is full day activity of walking in waist level water. Generally people do the riverside walk and then walk about 30-40 mins in the water/narrow and return. We decided to follow the same trend.

 

 

 

While early mornings have lesser crowd on the trail and the narrows, the water will be super cold. It is better to hike in the afternoon, when the water temperature is slightly higher. It was great that we planned this in the afternoon, the water was slightly cold but not bad. We hiked on the riverside walk and walked in narrows for 40 mins. We walked in the water until it reached our knee length and returned. Walking in fresh and cool flowing water between the huge rocky mountains was an amazing experience. 

 

 

 

Water proof shoes and socks are available on rent at the visitor center. However, we did the narrows with our regular shoes (sneakers). Some people were managing with sandals as well. The water bed is full of small stones, which are slippery in some areas. A good pair of shoes (even if not water proof) and trekking pole helps a lot to navigate into the water. Also, wearing dry fit clothes works out better. We had also carried an extra pair of footwear to change into post our hike. 

Narrows

It took us about 3 hours to return to the shuttle stop. It was around 4pm when we returned to the visitor center. We were super hungry and went to the first cafe we came across. Late lunch at the Zion Canyon Brew Pub was a perfect break before heading back to Springdale. We had some amazing Mexican food. Since it's very close to the visitor center, this place is very crowded and the service can get slow. We had to wait for 20 mins for our food to arrive. There are a bunch of other restaurants at a couple of minutes walk from the visitor center. We saw them only after we finished our lunch when we headed back to Springdale.

We dropped our trekking poles at the Inn and started our drive to our next destination - Bryce National Park (BNP).

Get Completely Off The Grid @ Off The Grid

Off The Grid - popularly know as OTG (http://www.offthegrid.in/come-and-stay.html) is a completely different homestay experience. This is nestled in the western ghats, close to Londa. As the name suggest, this place is completely "off the grid". Once here, one is completely disconnected from the outside world. OTG can be easily reached from Londa, Goa or Belgaum. This place is surrounded by forest ranges on all 3 sides and has a stream running through their property. ONLY people we meet/see here, are the people working at the homestay or the visitors staying here. Slyvia and John are the owners of this homestay and they are pretty hands-on hosts. During our stay we could only meet Slyvia as John was travelling. We had a most relaxed and memorable 3 days at OTG.

Belgaum, being my home town, we were already there for our summer holidays. We borrowed my sister's car and drove to OTG. This is about 2 1/2 hours peaceful drive from Belgaum. Once we crossed Khanapur, we enter the Dandeli forest and from here the drive is very scenic and peaceful. Its just trees all around and not a soul on the road. Mobile connectivity is intermittent here. Hence recommend to have the maps ready.

We had breakfast at my parent's house and started around 8:30AM from Belgaum. Though it was peak summer (May 7th), we did not feel the heat, as the drive was mostly through the forest ranges. Once we reached castle rock, we followed the directions given by Slyvia. The village where OTG is located has only 2 houses - one is OTG and the other house belongs to the farmer/cook/helper who works at OTG. Unless it is a SUV/4 wheel drive, one cannot take the car upto the homestay. We parked our car at a designated parking and honked few times to attract the attention of the helper from OTG (since there is no mobile connectivity, we were instructed to honk once we reach the parking place). A note of precaution - use proper footware as the road is muddy and full of pebbles. I lightly sprained my leg because of improper footware :(

Scenic drive from Belgaum to OTG

After a few honks, one attendant helped us with our luggage to OTG. There! we see a big white house and couple of cottages by the stream. The place looks exactly as shown on their website. During the booking, I had asked for 2 cottages by the stream. When we reached their, Slyvia gave us an option to change to rooftop rooms on the main building which had attached bath. I think, she was sceptical whether our daughters would be comfortable in an open bathroom which is away from the cottages. But we are seasoned travellers and our kids are used to all kinds of stuff. They were excited with staying independently in a separate cottage and a open roof bathroom. This was best decision. It was a perfect location for us - 2 independent cottages by the stream. One was taken by kids and we had one for ourselves.

In this property there is one main building (white in color) and 2 cottages and couple of tepees. This place is completely aloof from the outside world. It is surrounded by forest on 3 sides and a stream flows through the property. There are lot of fruits trees like mango, gauva, papaya. There are two fire-wood ovens in the open space. Evening dinner is typically cooked in this fire-wood oven. There is a place for camp-fire under the open sky and not a soul around.

Cottages by the stream and open roof bathroom

All types of accommodation are good and each has its charm. We choose to stay in the cottages. The cottages are very rustic, basic, comfortable and clean. They have a queen-sized bed and a open bamboo shelf. There are no glasses to the windows, just the wooden panes with curtains. But it was amazing, we had one of the most peaceful sleep of our lives. No insects bothered us, even though we were in the middle of the forest. That is eco-friendly lodging. The cottages are adjacent to each other. They have a small sit-out with a good lounge overlooking the stream. Best place to unwind with a book.

Stream infront of the cottage

There is a single bathroom, shared between both the cottages and this is few steps away from the cottages. This is an open-roof bathroom. It has a WC. Hot water was provided in a bucket for bathing. There are no lights inside the bathroom. For that matter there are no lights even in the bedroom. Solar powered lamps are provided at dusk. These are pretty handy and double up as torches and lamps for rooms.



We put our luggage into the cottages. Fresh lemonade was served - which was very refreshing. Since there was still some time until lunch time, Slyvia (the host) suggested we go to the natural pool (about 200m from the property - it's like it is a private property, but it isn't). We changed into our swimming costumes. We were also given life jackets as a safety precaution.

Waterfalls and Natural Pool

Just 200m walk in the forest from OTG is this natural waterfalls and pool. The water here was super cool. Slyvia accompanied us to the pool. It's about 15-20 feet deep, hence she recommended we wear the life jackets. Initially we were hesitant to get into the water, but once in, didn't want to come out. Atlast, I felt it was worth learning to swim. I could get into the water and enjoy it. We had super fun floating in the pool and swimming under the water falls. The little fishes in the water made sure we don't stand in one place for more than a minute. As soon as we were still, they would all pounce on our feet to eat the dead cells. We spent about an hour here and did not realize how the time flew.

Dining area surrounded by mango grooves

By the time we returned from a refreshing time at the pool, a healthy delicious meal was awaiting at the table. We had some salad, pasta, rice and curry and some dessert. Everything about this place is unique. The dining area is also out in the open with some shade. There are mango trees all around the dining area. Since this was the mango season, the trees were full of mangoes. Because of the tress and open area, we did not feel the heat much. We were tired with the drive and playing water. After a good lunch, we had a nice nap. Kids however spent time with Slyvia at the pottery studio. Slyvia has a nice pottery studio. She taught the kids how to make small pots, beads and lamps. The kids had great fun at the pottery studio.

Some stuff we tried at pottery studio

Around 4pm, Slyvia suggested that we could go for a small trek. My leg was slightly sore with the sprain. I decided to still go for the trek as it didn't hurt much. The trek was through the forest and we came across some amazing views. Halfway through the trek, my leg pain worsened. I, however, continued at a slow pace as there was no other way to reach back. By the time we returned, it was dusk. My leg pain had worsened and I could barely walk. Slyvia gave some pain relief balm and a wrap. This helped a bit.

As night set in, the fire-wood ovens were lit along with the camp fire. Kids helped Slyvia set up the pizza. Pizzas and vegetables were ready for baking in the oven. The whole place was peaceful and lovely. We could see the clear sky with twinkling stars, there were few fire flies twinkling in the trees, dinner was getting baked in the fire-wood ovens and the camp-fire was keeping us all warm in the cool evening of a summer night. They have a nice sitting area made of clay around the campfire. There are stands to hook the oil lamps in the evening. This place looks more beautiful in the evening. We got our drinks (though there is no power, they manage to get the ice delivered from the nearest town and they have made arrangements to store the ice without electricity) and settled around the campfire, discussing on all kinds of topics. Slyvia was great host. She is very active and up to date on lot of stuff. She kept us entertained on lot of stories at her property.

Fire set in @ firewood oven

We were the only guests at the property. So the whole place was for us. It was amazing. There is absolutely no network in this property. There is only one point from where one can make calls. There is no electricity. Solar lamps are charged during the day and used during night. They also have a TV in the main building which runs on solar power. Coming here gives lot of assurance that great life can be lived without network and electricity.

Campfire and dinner area

Dinner was ready and what a spread it was - my mouth waters even now :). There was hot soup, fresh salad made from the veggies grown on the farm, baked vegetables, fire-wood pizza. Can't describe how yummy the food was. It was splendid. We just could not stop eating. Chocolate brownie with fresh cream was served for dessert. Wow! what a evening. This was classic.

Next day a trek to Vajra falls was planned. We planned to start at 7AM with some packed breakfast. We went back to our cottages and had a great sleep. There were no mosquitoes to bother us, though we were in the middle of the forest. No lights, except for the small solar lights. Yet we felt very safe and slept like a log.

Vajra Falls

We woke up at 6:00 AM to the sound of chirping birds. My leg was not in great shape :( I decided to skip the trek. Pankaj and kids, along with the guide left for the trek to Vajra falls around 7:30am. They carried enough water and light breakfast. I spent my lone time reading a book by the stream and chatting up with Slyvia at breakfast. Slyvia left to Goa after breakfast. My leg was getting back to normal. Pankaj and kids returned from trek around 11:30am. They were pretty tired. But they had a good 4hr trek. Once back it was time to relax. Each one found their favourite book and a nice spot and settled to relax. After a good healthy meal, Pankaj decided to take a nap. Me and kids went to the pottery studio to try our hands on pottery, based on the lessons given by Slyvia the previous day. We tried doing lot of cool things - some turned out good, some were oddly shaped :)

On the way to Vajra Falls

Around 4pm we went again to the natural waterfalls and pool. A dip/swim into fresh and cool water under the shade of trees was very refreshing in the hot summer. As the sunset, the magic of evening set in. Oil lamps were hooked up, fire-wood ovens were lit and there was absolute peace. There was no sound other then the sound of nature. We had a another tasty meal of soup, awesome-tasty pizzas and grilled vegetables, rice and salad, followed by the goan dessert Bebinca with some fresh wipped cream. Yum!!!

After another good night of sleep, we decided to trek to Dudhsagar falls before we checked out. The actual trek is about 2 hours. But overall time to drive to the starting point of the trek, acquiring permissions, trek and return will take about 4 hours. Permissions for the trek can be obtained from the forest department at Castle Rock. The permissions need to be taken on the same day as the trek.

Trek path enroute Dudhsagar falls

This trek to Dudhsagar falls was to the mouth of the falls. We started at 7am. We hired a 4-wheel drive vehicle. Tintin was our driver cum guide. He helped us get the permissions at the Castle Rock forest department. It was about 30-40 min drive to the starting point of the trek. The trek was primarily through the forest and at some point tiring. But was a very beautiful trek. It took us about an hour and half to reach the mouth of the falls. The views from top are breath-taking. The famous railway track looks like a small line from the top. We saw a train pass-by, and it looked like a rope from the top. The view of Dudhsagar falls from here is very different from the view one sees at the bottom of the falls. We enjoyed the views, played in water for sometime, had our packed breakfast of parathas and sandwiches and rested for sometime under the shade of trees. After enjoying the beautiful surroundings to our heart content, we decided to trek back. Trekking back is always less exciting, especially in hot sun and after eating. We wish, the vehicle would just come and pick us up from here. The sun was up and we were tired. Though the trek was through the forest - mostly shaded, it still was very tiring. After lot of breaks, we reached the point where the vehicle was parked. It was now straight drive to OTG.

View of Dudhasagar falls from top

View of train from top of Dudhasagar falls

 Once at OTG, we freshened up, had some fresh juice and ready to check-out. We had another 2 hour drive to Belgaum. We had a lovely time at OTG and left the place with lot of memories to cherish. We reached Belgaum around 2pm. My mom had prepared some delicious lunch. Had a yummy meal, took a nap and pack again to catch Rani-Chanamma express to Bangalore at 6:30PM. Time to say good-bye to Belgaum after another exciting and memorable break during summer.