04: Ramechhap - Lukla - Phakding - Where the Mountains Get Bigger and the Air Gets Thinner

Day 4 (30/Mar/2026): Ramechhap - Lukla (2860m) - Phakding (2610m)

Memories from our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) 

The day started early with the hope of getting good weather and we flying to Lukla. Plan was to have an early breakfast and reach airport by 6am. By 5:30am we were all down at the lawns for breakfast. Though not very hungry we grabbed some fruits and sandwiches and started walking to the airport. Ashish was already at the airport to ensure our group is first in the queue to get boarding passes. Yes, it is pretty much first-come-first-serve basis 😅.

Reached airport, got our boarding passes and now wait. Today there was no hassle of weighing and managing luggage. It was already at the airport somewhere. Today we noticed our boarding passes were printed and not hand written. This gave us some hope. However, all of us knew by now that there are a lot of dependencies which are beyond anyone's control to fly out of Ramechhap.

With boarding passes, security checks done, we were back in the waiting room. Sanjeev was back to tracking Summit air flights on Lukla Airport Live. We got to know Sam had reached Lukla - he had directly flow from Kathmandu to Lukla. AP team (Ghanshyam, Sam, Ashish, Chirring) were all co-ordinating and trying to get us on a flight at the earliest. Ofcourse all the effort was in the hope that weather would be good and flights would be operational.

We had a ray of hope when we saw Summit airlines land at Ramechhap. Unfortunately, we were not yet called. This flight left and kept us waiting. We saw Sita and Tara airlines land as well and take its passengers. We were all glued to Lukla Airport Live – trying to see if there is a Summit airlines leaving from there and in the hope it would come to Ramechhap. This was almost like waiting for a bus in a remote village of India not know when it would come yet waiting in hope that it would come soon and we would get on to it 😀.

Finally, we saw a Summit airlines flight take off from Lukla. All we had to do was wait for 20-30 minutes to know whether this was our lucky flight. And, yes, the flight which landed next at Ramechhap was indeed Summit Airlines! The wait was over and we were called to board. We also saw our bags being boarded onto the flight. So it was actually happening.

Flying to Lulka is an adventure in itself. The aircrafts are tiny, max 12-14 seaters and are largely operated manually by pilots. They fly at a relatively lower altitude and only experienced pilots can operate these flights. Our flight had one pilot and one air-hostess. The air-hostess directed us on our seating to ensure weight is distributed evenly across the aircraft. We are seated, the engine starts and it is pretty loud. Up until now we were mostly worried about when we will board. Now that we were actually seated, and the aircraft moving on the runway it sunk in that we were actually flying to the most talked about airport in the world – The Lukla Airport!

 

 

This is short 30 minute flight but plays an important means of connectivity to the start of EBC trek - Lukla. Apparently to reach Lukla by road it would take 19-20 hours. This flight journey was another unique experience.  The aircraft flies low and one could see the roads carved through the hills. It’s a wonder how the pilot was able to navigate the aircraft through the hills, through the clouds even with low visibility. We were all trying to adjust to the turbulence and noise of the engine at the same time enjoying the views. As were just about getting used to aircraft, it was already time to land. 

  

The runway at Lukla Airport (Tenzing-Hillary Airport) is approximately 527 meters (1,729 feet) long – one of the shortest runways. It features a steep upward gradient and is situated at an elevation of roughly 2,860 meters (9,400 feet), serving as the primary gateway for Everest Base Camp (EBC). We were all focused watching out of the window to view the landing. Even before we could soak into the surroundings, the aircraft had landed. It was moment to rejoice.

Once out of the aircraft, we saw Sam with the AP team waiting for us. From here on we didn’t have to worry about anything. AP team ensured we were all well taken care of. While we walked out of Lukla Airport, we were greeted to life-size golden colored statues of Tenzing & Hillary. A short walk from here was Mountain View Lodge where we were all headed for briefing before we start our trek. 

It was bright sunny day and we all gathered at the terrace of Mountain View Lodge. The views from here were amazing. We could see a few snow-capped mountains from here. The plan was to use this place to freshen up, fuel ourselves with some hot Ginger Lemon Tea (GLT) and potato fries. 

Once everyone gathered and had their tea, Sam introduced the support team that would be with us for next 11 days on this EBC trek. Apart from Sam, the founder of AP and Everest & Ama Dablam summiteer, three other guides Dorchi Dai, Sonam Dai and Chirring (younger brother of Dorchi Dai) would accompany us on this trek. We were lucky to have Sam lead and guide us on this trek.  There were 6 sherpas - Ram Lakshman (who was the senior most), Mahindra, Japan Dai, Roshan, Ashwin, and Yogesh. Yogesh played dual role. Apart from the role of a sherpa, he also did the duties of a guide once we reached the tea houses. 

We were a full team of 22 people - 4 Guides, 6 Sherpas and 12 Trek group members

• Hyderabad Gang - A couple (Shyam & Shweta - senior trekker) and their friends Rishi and Gavish.

• Yogesh (Rishi’s childhood friend)

• Megha (the healer – she had medicines for all kinds of pains)

• Rupal (marathon runner)

• Gowthami (HR madam)

• Sanjeev (my dear friend and mate from college. Everyone thought he was a doctor by profession)

• Shobita (my dear friend and mate since grade 12)

• Pankaj & me. 

EBC trek group was all set and excited to embark on this journey. After all the meets and greets and everyone recharged, and it was time to actually begin the EBC Trek. We started around 9:30am, and a few minutes’ walk from the Mountain View Lodge, we came to the “Pasang Lhamu Memorial Gate” – official starting point of EBC trek.

 

I was thrilled when Sam said from here up to Phakding it’s all 'Nepali flat'. Even though Ashish described what 'Nepali flat' meant, I had not experienced. Little did know what it means to hike on a Nepali flat trail. The word flat is deceiving 😅.  In a few minutes of walking we all got into our own rhythm and pace. Our guides also spread themselves to ensure there is one guide around every 3-4 members. I walked at a slow pace to avoid exertion and altitude sickness. Pankaj calibrated his pace with me. He either walked along side of me or right behind me.

Each sherpa typically carries around 25Kgs (2 duffle bags) and takes them to the next destination. They were so quick, we never saw them on our way. Four guides were always with the group, supporting members with different pace. No matter what, there would be one guide with the members who were ahead and one at the end to ensure all the group members were safe. Apart from accompanying, guiding us, the trek leads/guides also provided information about the surroundings, stories from their treks and lives. It was very great getting to know them and their interesting journeys.

The guides were constantly watching us to see if we were facing any issues, encountering altitude sickness, needed any support. Apart from trekking along with us, they would allocate rooms, coordinate our meals, take and place our orders, filling our water bottles with water and purifying tablets, ensuring we all ate properly, briefing us on the next day’s plans and just being a buddy for any support we would need.

 

Today was a sunny day and we didn’t need any extra layers. Lush green all around and with the mountains on one side the trail was beautiful. We could see small hamlets on the hills. I wondered how people lived in such secluded areas. An hour into the trek, we stopped for a break at a beautiful café called ‘Himalayan Sherpa Coffee’. The café’s had open sitting area which was overlooking a valley and beautiful hilltops all around. Few group members had coffee & snacks here. We were glad to get a short break and clean washrooms.

Himalayan Sherpa Cafe

 

Throughout the EBC trail, there are great cafes which serve amazing coffee and delicious bakery items. These café’s also have clean washrooms,  so all the more reasons to take breaks 😀. Cold weather, Diamox and lots of water consumption to avoid AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) all contribute to frequent bio breaks - which can pretty annoying especially at higher altitude. 

  

Unlike other paths, EBC trails are not smooth. To make it accessible across all seasons, most of the trail are cobbled with uneven stones. One has to be extra careful and it also exerts a lot of pressure on the knees, ankle and feet. The beauty of the surroundings make it easy to not worry about the path. The trail just keeps getting prettier.   

After a couple of hours on the trail we came across a suspension bridge – Thado Koshi suspension bridge, built on Thado Koshi river. This was the first bridge crossing and Dorchi dai said we would be crossing many more in the coming days. These bridges are long and they connect two hills. When you peep down on the bridge, you realise the river is so deep down. Amazing views - green hills all around, river gushing below and cool wind blowing on our faces. 

 

Thado Koshi suspension bridge

Throughout this trail we came across small hamlets, farmlands, prayer flags and rocks with prayer scripts carved on them. One needs to move around these rocks in way that they are to your right. We also came across Rhododendron trees, Magnolia trees which have huge white flowers (this was first time I was seeing a Magnolia tree), then we came across cherry and peach trees as well. This stretch of the trail was very green and beautiful. Around noon we stopped for lunch at a tea house. We had dal-bhat-tarkari thali for lunch. The weather was getting colder and hot dal-bhat with muli ka pickle & papad felt good. After lunch and a couple more hours of trekking we reached Phakding.  

 

Phakding is at 2610m (8563ft), approximately 200m lower than Lukla. Our stay at Phakding was at beautiful tea house called 'Sherpa Guide Lodge'. The lodge had a backdrop of mountains which were mostly green and few had dusted ice on their peaks. The tea house had a nice open area at the entrance where they had put a few recliners, then the main building had the restaurant & kitchen and the rooms were behind the main building. The rooms were on either side of the passage and were made of solid wood. It reminded me of houseboats in Kashmir. Each room had two beds, a table & chair and a attached bath. The window from the room overlooked a small patch of farmland and beyond that were mountains.

 

By now the weather had got more cold. I also started feeling a little uneasy in the room. I thought it was because of the ventilation. Pankaj and I decided to go to the common area and have Ginger Lemon Tea (GLT), hoping I would feel better. We shared a GLT, I felt a little better and went back to our room. After a few minutes, the uneasiness returned. I also started feeling heavy headed and giddy when I bent. It was pretty cold by now, so put on some warm layers and returned to the common area with playing cards – hoping some distraction might help. More group members joined us to play cards. My uneasiness worsened. I told Sam about this and he asked me to step out into fresh air. Pankaj, Sam and I went out in the open area of the lodge. I told Pankaj, maybe this is it. We may have to return back and say bye-bye to the trek. I was feeling very low and sick. Sam asked a few questions to understand what I was going through. He got oximeter to measure my SPO2 and an inhaler which would help feel better. My SPO2 was normal. The herbal inhaler and deep breaths helped. Sam said my uneasiness is because of low intake of water. Today I had only two bottles of water. Since I was on Diamox, I had to consume a minimum of 3-4 liters of water. That explained. Fresh air, deep breaths, herbal inhaler and assurance from Sam that it is lack of water which has caused this, I started feeling better. 

Sherpa Lodge - Tea House @ Phakding

 

After some time Sam took all of us around Phakding. Phakding is small village enroute EBC - mostly with tea houses, cafes and shops serving the trekkers. We visited a Irish café which had a pool table and a bakery which had some amazing cakes and cookies. Apparently the parts of the pool table were manually carried by sherpas and then assembled here.

After exploring around Phakding, we were back at the tea house. We had some time before dinner was served. So we decided to get on to our card games. We were enjoying our game so much, we didn’t realise we were loud and disturbing others in the common area. Our trek lead informed us to keep it a little quite. After a few games, it was time for dinner. The guides meticulously got each of our orders, served our meals and also ensured we all ate well. This was also the time they would observe us to see if any of us were feeling sick. Low appetite is one of the signs of AMS.

Opposite our table, there was a family of 5 (parents and 3 children - all seemed under 13). They were celebrating their son’s (youngest kid) 10^th birthday. We all sang for him. At this point we didn’t know them. But as the days went we kept bumping into this family at various tea houses on the EBC trek and got to know them more. They were from Australia - Brave hearts! We infact met them even on the last day at Kathmandu before we returned to Bangalore.

With dinner done, it was time to wind-up day 1 of the trek. It was an exciting first day and the next day was going to be a long one with significant ascent before we reach the famous Namche bazar - doorway to EBC. 

 

03: Ramechhap - Where the Mountains Get Bigger and the Air Gets Thinner

Day 3 (29/Mar/2026): Ramechhap 

Memories from our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC)

Our day started early. Now that our duffle bags would be checked-in and boarded on to Lukla flight, ensuring we are within the prescribed limits was essential. We packed our bags and left the duffle bags near the van for them to be taken to the airport. Ramechhap airport was just 10m walk from the hotel - we could actually see a section of it from the hotel. After a quick breakfast of sandwiches and fruits we walked to the airport. Meanwhile Ashish was already at the airport to get in the queue and arrange our boarding passes. Soon our bags also arrived via the van. 

 

Every process in Ramechhap airport was an unique experience. From layout of the airport to weighing of bags (both check-in and carry on), security, boarding pass, getting inside the airport to take-off - everything was very simple and slow. 

As there was a limit of max of 15kgs per person (11kgs checkin & 4kgs of carryon), we wore multiple layers of jackets to reduce the weight of our check-in bags. Inspite of this many bags were exceeding the 11 Kg limit for checkin bags. Interestingly, the weight limit is applied to the group and not per person.  Each one of ended up paying NPR 500 per person for excess baggage as a group. Once the weighing was done, Ashish handed out our boarding passes that were hand written. 

 

 

 

Our flight to Lukla was on Summit Air. We saw one of the Summit airlines take-off and we were told we would get onto the next one. We were like okay. We had no idea how this airport function. There is no monitor showing flight schedules nor were there any announcement. One just had to wait until asked to board. This was bizarre. It might be another hour or two before another Summit Air flight lands in Lukla.  

Handwritten Boarding Pass - Ramechhap Airport

 

Security check @ Ramechhap Airport

 

We were then waiting for the signal from Ashish to get in the security line. Security was a simple affair here. Because it’s a tiny airport, with simple checks we were past security and in the waiting area for our flight. We could see our bags already loaded on the cart for ready to be loaded onto the plane. We had nothing much to do now than wait for our flight.

 

 

 

 

 

After 2-3 hours of waiting, we get to know the weather here had been bad for the last 2-3 days and flights to Lukla couldn't take-off. Because of which there was a lot of backlog of travelers to be flown to Lukla. First priority would be given to them and then the fresh travelers (who had arrived today). 

The waiting area at the Ramechhap airport is bare minimum. It has a small seating area with a couple of washrooms and a few water dispensers. It can accommodate max 50-60 people. There are no cafes or shops to grab a bite. There was one tiny café in the waiting area serving some basic coffee and sandwiches - even this cafe was barely functional. We ended up eating the breakfast bars we were carrying. 

 

 

We kept waiting hoping to board the flight soon. Unfortunately, there is no other easy way to reach Lukla other than by air. Constantly monitoring 'Lukla Airport Live' a live streaming on youtube was the only way to know the status of the flights.  Sanjeev was glued to watching Lukla airport live. To some extent I was too.  After initial enthusiasm of watching the flights land and take-off, and still no sign of us boarding, we got to reading to distract ourselves (gladly Pankaj and I had our kindles). There was nothing much we could do. The best part is you can’t even blame anyone. Bad weather - Flights can’t and don’t fly! Period.

Waiting @ Ramechhap Airport

Around12 noon we were told to go back to the hotel as no flights can take-off/land due to bad weather. Unlike other airports, our the luggage here was left at the airport out in the open (not inside- we could actually see it in open on the cart). Since the bags were already checked-in and would to be left at the airport, we were asked to pick any necessary items for the bag for the night.  OMG! Life is so simple here. No worries of security, no long queues. I wish this was the case all around the world - then travel would become so simple and stress free.

We stopped over at a small joint for lunch, which was right outside the airport. Hyderabad gang was here and enjoying their lunch. Based on their recommendation, we ordered roti and sabzi. The sabzi was made fresh to order and it tasted delicious. We enjoyed the meal at out own pace. After the long wait and disappoint at the airport, food lifted our spirits. 

We walked back to the hotel. Our accommodation here was planned for only one night. Now that we were going to be here for another night, our rooms were reallocated. Now, Shobita and Gowthami got a room at Manthali Park. We went up to our rooms to freshen up. Not wanting to coop-up in the room, Pankaj and I picked up our kindles and playing cards and went down to the lawns. We saw Sanjeev and Shobita, who were already there sitting and chatting under a tree. They too were a little disappointed with the day’s events, but no one could do anything. Best would be to enjoy the surroundings and hope we would fly next day.

Manthali Park Inn had good open space with bunch of tables and chairs. Initially it was just Sanjeev, Shobita, Pankaj and me playing cards. Soon more members of the group joined. We played different games – Megha taught us the game of Black Queen, Yogesh taught us Judgement. It was a great way to unwind and also get to know each other. These games distracted us from the disappointment of the flight, but by dinner time we were again anxious on how the weather would be next day and will be fly to Lukla.

Dinner was served early. The food at the resort was very tasty. While most of us had an early dinner and called it a day with the hope of hitting our luck to get on the Lukla flight tomorrow, the Hyderabad gang was in a party mood. Their spirits were high and they continued to hang around in the lawn area.

 

02: Kathmandu to Ramechhap - Where the Mountains Get Bigger and the Air Gets Thinner

Day 2 (28/Mar/2026): Kathmandu to Ramechhap 

Memories from our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC)

After a huge spread of breakfast buffet at the hotel, all of us gathered in the terrace. After overnight rains, views from the hotel terrace were even more beautiful.  

Entire group assembled in the terrace for trek briefing and introductions. Here we got to meet the other group members - Shweta, Shyam, Rishi and Gavish, who had traveled from Hyderabad. We also met Chirring (co-trek lead), who would be joining us on this trek. In the round of introductions, we got to know that this would be the first high altitude trek for a few of us. Sam briefed us about the trek, what to expect and tips on how to manage it. He also mentioned there was a possibility of encountering snow on the trails at higher altitude and its better if we carry crampons/spikes. Since snow was unusual during the month of April, none of us were carrying crampons. Ghanshyam told us he would arrange them before we leave to Ramechhap. 

We were told the shorter route to Ramechhap was closed and we would be taking the longer route which would take about 8-9 hours of travel by road. Due to this, the plan now was to start from Kathmandu by noon with packed lunch so that we reach Ramechhap by 8-9PM. After the briefing we had a couple of hours to finish packing and any last minute shopping before we started for Ramechhap. We used this time to pack all trek items in the duffle bag (rented from AP). Apart from all the items we had brought from B’lore, we now had a few additional items - down jacket, wind cheater, gloves, buff, sleeping bag and crampons. Packing and ensuring the weight didn't exceed 12 kgs. was a task in itself. Pheew 😅

Checkin and daypack bags were packed, weighed and we were all set to start on the road trip to Ramechhap. All the extra luggage was left back at the hotel storage. We collected our packed lunch box (sandwiches, juice, apple, cutlet) and started on the drive. Gladly the van was air-conditioned and with good leg room. All the 12 members along with Chirring and Ashish (AP coordinator who was with us until we flew from Ramechaap) boarded the van. We bid goodbye to Sam and Ghanshyam (Sam would be joining us directly at Lukla the next day). 

 

Kathmandu being a congested city, it took us a while to get out of Kathmandu and onto highway. All along, there was a lot of road work inprogress - it was a long and bumpy ride. Chatting, laughing, short naps, snacking (some amazing munchies from the Hyderabad gang), stories from Ashish about his marathon journey and DJ Chirring kept us entertained throughout the journey. After a few hours of journey, our first break was at a small hotel/tea shop. This hotel had a small open seating which overlooked beautiful hills. Sanjeev spotted a few birds here (can’t recall the bird’s name though). A short break along with chowmein and tea was much appreciated.

Parts of the drive to Ramechhap were scenic and beautiful. However, due to the recent rains, roads were in bad condition. Learnt a new word today from Ashish - ‘Nepali Flat’ - basically constant ups and downs. We were tired of sitting in the van on the never-ending bumpy roads. We watched the sun set over the hills and pretty soon it was pitch dark. With no villages/towns around, the roads were deserted and dark.  Around 7-7:30PM, we stopped for another tea break at a village. There were a couple of shops selling some snacks and tea. While the tea was being prepared, Shobita and I walked around. It would be another couple of hours of drive before we reached Ramechhap.

Ramechhap is a small town with a tiny airport primarily for flights to Lukla. Since there are very few direct flights from Kathmandu to Lukla, most trekkers to EBC will go via Ramechhap. I guess the town has evolved because of the growing trekker population and the airport connectivity. By the time we reached Ramechhap it was pretty late. We were hungry and tired of the long journey. Our stay here was at Manthali Park Inn - a beautiful place by the banks of Tama Koshi River. Didn't expect such a fancy resort in a small town as Ramechhap. It had big lawns, swimming pool, bar and outdoor seating.  Dinner was already kept ready for us, so we first had dinner before heading to our rooms. Due to shortage of availability of one room in Manthali Park Inn, Shobita and Gowthami were given a room in a lodge opposite to the Inn.  Rooms at the Manthali Park Inn were decent with twin beds and attached bath with hot water. It was already very late and we had to be up and ready by 6am next day for our flight to Lukla. So quickly kept all the things ready for next day and called it a day. 

01: Bengaluru to Kathmandu - Where the Mountains Get Bigger and the Air Gets Thinner

Day 01 (27/Mar/2026) - Kathmandu

Memories from our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC)

Wrapping up all the things at home, we set out to B'lore airport, all excited to leave to Kathmandu for the much awaited EBC trek. We were traveling by Air India Express direct flight from B’lore at 10:30AM and we would be in Kathmandu at 2PM. After juggling with the packing to ensure we don’t cross the baggage limit, we were now in the baggage drop line hoping our bags were not overweight. We met Sanjeev and Shobita at the airport - they had just about dropped their bags. Once our bags were dropped without any hassle it was a big sigh of relief.  Security check was quick and we now had a lot of time before our flight. All of us had left home early to get to the airport on time and hadn't had a chance to grab breakfast. We stopped at Bombay Brasserie for breakfast - a fancy looking restaurant at Terminal 2 which was decorated all over with wooden dolls. 

After breakfast some more chilling at the airport before the flight arrived. Thankfully our flight was on time and no more surprises. Just one week ago, we get to know Air India Express has cancelled all flights in April. While our onward flight was still confirmed, return flight was cancelled. Apart from all the other stuff this was an additional task to find a return flight which was also with reasonable fare. So when we boarded the flight it was a big relief. Pankaj, me and Shobita were seated in the same row. Sanjeev was a few rows infront of us. Flight to Kathmandu was a short 3 hour flight. So we mostly read and slept through the journey.

Immigration at Kathmandu was chill. Looking at the bags and the attire of the people in the immigration queue, most of them seemed like trekkers. Once we were out, we met Adventure Pulse (AP) team SPOC who had come to pick us. We also met Yogesh who had traveled from Pune for this trek. In about 45 minutes we were dropped at 'Hotel La Mustang'. When Pankaj and I had visited Nepal couple of years ago, we had stayed around the same area. We were greeted by Samir (Sam) and Ghanshyam. Shobita and Sanjeev had met Sam and Sauraj (founders of AP) when they were in B’lore for their book launch event in Feb '26.

After the check-in formalities and intros we went to our allocated rooms. Sam suggested he can do a round of check to ensure we have all the necessary items and also leave back unnecessary things. Once Pankaj and I got to our room, we put all the trek items as per the checklist provided by AP team. Sam verified and asked us to reduce the number of trek pants/shirts and a few other items which were not required. To ensure we have all the necessary items and keep the weight under 12kgs was tough task. We managed to get our bag under 11Kg and left some room to accommodate sleeping bag as well. In the hindsight, we realised we really don’t need/use many thing on the trek - especially clothes. Even eatables/snacks could have been cut down. Throughout the trek, there was a lot of food variety especially for dinner, it was pretty good and the three meals were filling. Only a little bit of snacks would have been sufficient to carry along. That would have helped us further reduce the weight.

Once the packing was sorted, plan was to do the pending shopping for the trek. Pankaj and I needed down jackets, windcheaters, gloves and woolen sock. We explored buying all these items, but then decided to rent down jacket and windcheater and purchased buff, gloves and woolen sock. Ghanshaym accompanied and helped us with all the shopping.

By now it had started raining. Sam and Ghanshyam walked us to a Nepali thali place for dinner. Gowthami who had landed in Kathmandu a day earlier, also joined us for dinner. We had met her once in B’lore where she had joined us on one of our weekend practice treks to Makalidurga. It was great to see her again. All of us ordered Nepali thali. The food was delicious. Little did we know then that we would be having this kind of food almost every day for the next 11 days 😀. While we were winding up our dinner, Rupal joined. She had traveled from Mumbai. We were meeting her for the first time.  While waiting for Rupal to get her dinner, we ordered masala chai and brownies.

By now the rain had subsided. We walked back to the hotel and went to our respective rooms. Few minutes later I get a call from Gowthami checking if she could come by and introduce Megha. She had traveled from Assam. I had exchanged a couple of message with Megha few days ago. It was nice to meet her in person.  8 of us from the EBC trek group of 12 were here. Next day morning, we would be meeting the remaining four. Sam had mentioned, a meet and briefing session was planned for 10 am tomorrow (after breakfast). So for now it was time to unwind and get a good night sleep.

00: The Journey Before the Journey - Where the Mountains Get Bigger and the Air Gets Thinner

The Journey before the Journey

Memories from our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC)

 

October 2025, on our return flight from Vancouver, Pankaj and I started discussing where do plan our next long trip. EBC (Everest Base Camp) trek has been on my mind for some time now. Since the time I turned 50, the urge to do it has been stronger. I was trying to convince Pankaj on signing up for the EBC trek in April '26. Few of our friends had done this trek recently and it seemed doable with proper training. We spoke to them to understand the nuances of this trek. We got a mixed bag of feedback. I was convinced that we should do it. Initially Pankaj was a bit sceptical but eventually was convinced it would be once in a lifetime experience. Once we had decided, I posted it on our college whatsapp group to check if anyone would be interested in joining us. Shobita and her friend Meera were immediately onboard. Sanjeev was a bit hesitant at the beginning but eventually signed up - I think Shobita and I did a good job of convincing him😁.

We did a bit of research on a few organisations who organised this trek. I had heard great things about Adventure Pulse (AP) from my colleague/friend Chatura who had done multiple treks with them. After all the research, we decided to go with AP and formally registered for the trek by end of December 2025. Meera had to be back in B’lore by 12 April, so we had to find a batch which would meet this criteria. Since there was no preset batch from AP matching our dates, AP team created a separate batch for us based on our requirements. Our preferred batch slot was 27^th Mar – 11^th April with a night halt at Ramechhap (instead of traveling by road in the night from Kathmandu to Ramechhap, fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding all on the same day). Four members (Me, Pankaj, Shobita & Meera) were already confirmed (which was a requirement from AP team to have a custom batch). They also suggested if we were fine they could promote our batch dates on their website for more people to join. We were more than happy if more people could join. Our only request to them was to see if they can have new members in the same age bracket as ours.

Once our dates and registration formalities were confirmed with AP, we also started exploring flights. Air India Express had direct flights B’lore to/from Kathmandu. We went ahead and booked our flights too. The plan was to have all the bookings done by end of 2025 and start training for the trek with the dawn of 2026.

Now that 27^th March date was confirmed, the countdown had started. To help us plan & prepare well and also encourage each other I created a whatsapp group for the trek. In the 2^nd week of January, Sanjeev also confirmed he would be joining us on the trek. So now we were five of us. We were hoping a few more of our friends would join us on this trek. 

From 1^st weekend of Jan 2026 up until 7^th March 2026, we went on multiple one day treks - one every weekend. We did many wonderful treks around Bangalore - Madhugiri, Horagina Betta, Kunti Betta, Amabajidurga trek, Skandagiri trek, Nandi Hills steps climbing, Chamundi hills steps climbing and finally Makalidurga Trek (Gowthami joined us on this trek).

Apart from weekend treks and long brisk walks in beautiful parks of B’lore, Pankaj and I started focusing on leg strengthening workouts in the gym, long incline walks on treadmill (in the later stages with weighted backpack) and stair climbing at Mug’s apartment which had 15 floors. At the end of our training we were able to climb 105 floors (with weighted backpacks) in one go. With 10-12 weeks of consistent training and workouts we had trained ourselves well (that’s what I thought – ofcourse one never knows how our body would react in the mountains).

As 27^th March approached, our WA group was bustling with messages on what to purchase, where to buy them, which store had discounts, how to ensure we don’t over pack etc. Shobita and Meera were experienced high altitude trekkers. They had done Annapurna Circuit few years ago. They gave us a lot of tips and suggestions which came in very handy. We also got inputs from our friends who had recently completed EBC trek.

There was a separate official WA group with AP team and five of us. Few weeks before the trek start date, AP team also added other trek members to this WA group. At this point we knew them only by names. As the trek dates got closer, our queries also increased. Laveena patiently clarified all our doubts.

Couple of days before the trek start date, we received a call from Air India Express that they have cancelled all their flights in April due to operational reasons. This meant we will have to look for another flight for our return journey. When we booked in December we had got the tickets at a reasonable price, now the prices were very high. But we had no choice now. Instead of 3 hour direct flight we ended up with a 7 hour journey with a stopover at Delhi. Though we had an option of taking a direct flight with Nepal Airlines, we didn’t want to risk due to our prior experience of last minute flight cancellation with Nepal airlines. Thankfully our flight on the onward journey to Kathmandu wasn’t impacted.

The weekend before 27^th March was the busiest weekend. We had to finish last minute purchases, insurance for the trek, enable international roaming, inform family/friends/neighbours about our trip etc. We wanted to get our bags all packed and ready over the weekend so that we don’t have to worry about it during the work week. Days prior to long vacation are the most hectic days at work. Somehow lot of things suddenly need to be done on priority. Packing for this trek was the most time consuming job. We first tried to see if can pack all our stuff in our large trek backpacks. Unfortunately, couldn’t get to fit everything into them. Finally decided to carry everything in regular suitcases and later purchase/rent duffle bags in Kathmandu. Pankaj had this huge checklist prepared for the trek. Don't know how many times we went through that to ensure we haven't missed any thing.

Meanwhile, Meera had a situation at home. Her Father-in-Law was unwell and was in ICU. She was hoping he would recovery and return home soon. Except for purchasing the trek insurance she was all set. When her FIL was still in ICU on 26^th March, she called off her trek plans. This was bummer. She had trained for 3 months and was so looking forward to the trek. Unfortunately she couldn’t join us. However, she ended up doing the trek with another group in May. So, with Meera cancelled, it was just the four of us – Pankaj, me, Shobita and Sanjeev from our group. We were super excited and bit anxious to embark on the journey to EBC - Where the Mountains Get Bigger and the Air Gets Thinner!

Sedona - A Journey Through Nature's Wonders across American Southwest

Sedona

Drive from Antelope Canyon to Sedona is 160 miles and took us 3 hours. The drive to Sedona was very scenic passing through the lush pine forests of Coconino National Forest. It was a lot more green than the other places we had visited so far.

We reached Sedona around 6PM. The plan was to met one of Pankaj's school friend at a restaurant called 'Breezy'. This friend had drove all the way from Phoenix to meet us.  Restaurant Breezy is located in uptown of Sedona with a beautiful outdoor seating area. The view from the restaurant was super pretty.  We spent a couple of hours chatting and catching up over an early dinner. We got to experience another amazing view of the rising full moon. This was very different from the views in Bryce and Antelope.

Restaurant Breezy

Sedona uptown is also know for its quaint shops with beautiful candles, lamps, souvenirs and more. After a short walk in the uptown area we reached 'Pine Tree Resorts' - our stay for the night.

Pine Tree Resort - Sedona

Our cottage at Pine Tree Resorts was beautiful. It was a spacious cottage with a 1 bed room, hall and kitchen. It had been a long day and we were tired.  When we met-up with Pankaj's friend he had highly recommended 'Pink Jeep Tours' and said this something we should not miss this. We had not planned for this jeep tour, but since we got this must do recommendation, we started looking for ticket availability. We were lucky to have got seats on the 11am slot. Only because we were booking for a weekday we were able to get the tickets even at the last minute. These tours are hard to get over the weekend.

September 18th: Sedona to Grand Canyon

After a breakfast of fruit and homemade ladoos, it was already check-out time. I wish we stayed here for another day. Sadly we hardly spend anytime enjoying this resort.

We began our day at the Airport Mesa viewpoint, offering panoramic views of Sedona. This viewpoint is like any other stop point but a fantastic spot to get some panoramic views of Sedona.  It's also best experienced by cycling/biking to this view point. 

Airport Mesa Viewpoint

We had another hour before our Pink Jeep Tour at 11am. During this time we stopped over at Tlaquepaque Arts Village. This art village has some stunning arts and crafts of the Navajo people. One can easily spend 2-4 hours exploring the various outlets.

We reached the tour office well in time for our 11am tour. We were assigned our jeep. Each jeep has a max of 7 members plus driver who also is the guide. Glad this was a last minute booking. We had no idea what to expect. We just knew it would be an off-road 4 wheel jeep drive. 

Pink Jeep Tour Stop

After a short briefing, we were boarded our designated jeep, tucked ourselves in the seat belts and waiting to experience this much talked about drive. On our jeep, we had a couple of Canada, a family from Connecticut, USA and we three from Bangalore, India. The guide was super funny and keeping us entertained through out the drive. This is one good thing in US. I have found most of the tour guides to be very funny, cracking jokes and at the same time sharing a lot of information. It's amazing how they do this seamlessly.

Pink Jeep Tour

 

The tour was about two hours, driving on muddy pathways and on rocks - sometimes up and sometimes on steep descents. It might look scary, but it's nothing to be afraid of. I think some of the roller-coaster rides are more nerve wrecking. At a few places the jeep was descending at a 75 degree angle. The drivers are well trained and know exactly how to drive on these terrains. On this tour, we visited some amazing points which are not easily accessible by foot. We had a thrilling off-road adventure on this tour and glad we did it.

By the time the tour ended, we were super hungry. One of the co-tourist on our tour had recommended this restaurant 'Mariposa' (a latin inspired grill). We decided to go there for lunch. This was a few mins drive from the Pink Jeep Tour office. Mariposa is set in a beautiful location overlooking a valley. This is a fine dining boutique restaurant and luckily had vegetarian options on the menu.  

Apart from our meals, we also ordered some Yuca fries. These fries tasted like Tapioca fires. For meal, I had ordered a mushroom burger. It was kind of weird. Maybe it was just weird for me as I don't generally eat mushrooms. 

Chapel of Holy Cross

 

After lunch we stopped at the Chapel of the Holy Cross - easily skippable. But FOMO made us visit this place :) We also stopped at Yavapai Vista and Bell Rock view points. Didn't feel like hiking much after lunch. Hence make-do with view points. Also, I had started feeling a little uneasy after lunch. At this point I was all fine, but things turned differently when we started driving to our next destination - Grand Canyon

 

 

Antelope Canyons - A Journey Through Nature's Wonders across American Southwest

 September 17th: Drive from Bryce to Antelope Canyons

The drive from Bryce to Page, Arizona, was stunning, and we even crossed over a different time zone as we moved from Utah to Arizona. 

We wanted to make it in time for the sunset at Horseshoe bend. As we got close to Page in Arizona, we made a quick stop at the 'Wahweap' overlook to take in the grand view of Lake Powell and the never ending open landscape. Glad we didn't spend a lot of time here else we would have missed the amazing sunset at Horseshoe bend. Yes, this was another day of chasing sunset 😊. We decided we will not stop at Glen Canyon Bridge (which was en-route) and visit it at leisure the next day. 

Horseshoe Bend @Sunset

 We reached Horseshoe Bend just in time for the sunset. The car parking was almost full. Luckily we found a spot. Everyone was rushing towards the trail to not miss the sunset. It's a 20-minute walk from the parking to reach Horseshoe bend. I had not seen so many people in one place in the US other than the fireworks time at Amusement parks in Orlando. The sun was almost setting and it's yellow-orange-red hues were all over the bend and on the Colorado river. We just sat there witnessing breathtaking views of the bend, with setting sun on one side and rising moon on the other side. No pictures or words can fully describe the grandeur, depth and vastness of this nature's wonder. 

Moonrise @Horseshoe Bend

After spending almost an hour here, we walked back to our car and drove to Holiday Inn Express our home for tonight. The location of this hotel was very good. Lots of restaurants were just at a few minutes walking distance. We dined at a nearby restaurant called 'Gone West Family Restaurant'. This restaurant is set in Wild West theme, the food was great and also they had a live band performing. It was a great way to end yet another amazing day.

September 17th: Antelope Canyon and Sedona

Glen Canyon Dam

We didn't have any thing major planned until our Canyon tour later in the day. After a lazy breakfast at the hotel, we visited the Glen Canyon Overlook. Glen Canyon Dam Bridge was impressive and looked almost similar to Hoover Dam. The exhibits at the visitor center were informative. We skipped the Powell Museum - one because it was ticketed (didn't want to spend 30$ per person) and other reason was, we already had gathered enough information at the visitor center. We were looking forward to the main event: the Lower Antelope Canyon tour at 12:45 PM. 

Narrow Antelope Canyons

 After doing some research, we had booked our tour with Dixie's Lower Antelope Canyon Tour more than month in advance. There are approximately 70 people in each time-slot group because of which the slots get sold-out quickly. We reached Dixie's by noon. We had to wait in the waiting area until our tour turn. A Mexican entertained the waiting crowd with his hula-hoop stunts. In not time it was time for our tour.

The group was further divided into subgroups with 15 members and a tour guide. The guide gave us information about how the canyons were formed, some do and don't and also answered any questions we had. It was good 15-20 minutes walk in the hot sun, from the waiting area to the start of the canyon. Since the canyons are underground, we didn't see them until we reached the entrance. 

Ladder @ Canyon Entrance

In the lower antelopes, we had use steep & narrow ladder to enter to the canyons. Once we descend the ladder, we entered a magical world. The canyons are carved by erosion of Navajo sandstone due to flash flooding and other erosion. Most of the canyon passage was very narrow with only one person fitting it. 

Lady with the flowing hair

 The winding sandstone walls of the canyon were stunning. The pink-orange-red hues of sandstone with shades changing based on the sunlight created a different world underground. We were completely lost in this creation. Our tour guide showed some amazing formations and also helped us with wonderful pictures. Though the tour took about 1hr 30min it felt as if it got over quickly. The exit from the canyon was a very narrow opening and with that we were back to the world above the ground.

Narrow opening to exit Canyons

Post our antelope tour, we stopped by at Subway for lunch. A grumpy staff here made us feel a little unwelcome. From here it was time to move to our next stop 'Sedona'.