Day 10 (5/Apr/2026): Dingboche (4252m) to Lobuche (4930m)
Memories from our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC)
It was a beautiful morning. A fresh layer of snow was visible through the window. The mountains looked great as usual. We finished with whatever packing was left, got ready and then headed to the dining area for breakfast.
| View from our room |
Today was going to be a long day. Also, we would be crossing the famous Thukla pass, which is known for it's memorials and steep climb. After a filling breakfast, it was time to add all the layers – fleece, down jacket, windcheater, gloves, beanie, buff… can’t step out without these layers. It was biting cold and the strong wind made it worst. The good part of today’s hike was it would start with a descent and flat trail for some time before the ascent.
By 7:30-7:45am we are out and ready to start the hike. It was cloudy and windy. The view now was very different. It was just the mountains all around and us and periodic passing of fellow trekkers and yak herds. Because of slight snowfall, the trail had patches of snow, no greenery anywhere. Only colours in the area were the different colours of our jackets. It was a beautiful and peaceful stretch. Each of us walking at our pace, silently, with the roaring sound of wind around us.
After an hour - hour and half of hike, the ascent started. I was walking at a slow pace. Somewhere in the back of my mind, I had this thing - if I walked fast then very likely AMS would hit me. I think I had watched too many videos of people aborting EBC trek mid-way due to AMS. Subconsciously this had instilled a fear in me. I was trying to play it safe to ensure I complete the trek. Because I was walking slow, Pankaj also reduced his pace to match mine.
The trail was uneven with small boulders all along. At this altitude there were no tree. Only mountains, rocks and snow.
We were the last ones in the group to reach the lunch place. I was tired and hungry by the time we reached ‘Kala Pathar Lodge’ – our lunch stop. To reach this place we had to descend, cross a bridge and ascend again. OMG, I was like - why can’t they have the lodge right on the trail.
Hot aloo parathas with pickle were ready. Many of our trek group members were done or almost finishing lunch. We joined the group and had our lunch. Even though I was hungry couldn’t eat much – could be because of altitude and tiredness. We were only halfway done. Long and difficult part of today’s trek was still to be done.
Rupal was unwell, so she had decided to take the mule to Lobouche. It was great she could find a mule for hire. Chirring was accompanying Rupal to ensure she reaches Lobouche safely. Lots of gratitude to the Adventure Pulse team. They went all out to ensure we are all safe and well taken care of.
Kala Pathar Lodge is at the base of Thukla (Dughla) Pass. This pass sits at 4800m (15800 ft). The distance from the base to the pass is just 1 KM and an ascent of 200m, but takes 1 – 1 ½ hours to climb this. We took multiple stops to catch our breath. Didn’t imagine that a 1km distance would take so long. From the base it looks so doable, but once we started climbing, we got a real feel of what it was. Steep incline, low oxygen levels in air, already tired body, post lunch – all added up and slowed down the climb.
Around 2PM, after more than 1 ½ hours of climbing, we were finally at the famous Thukla pass. Crossing this is a huge milestone on EBC trail. It’s also very emotional and heart wrenching to see hundreds of memorials of mountaineers who lost their lives while climbing Mt. Everest. Seeing this one is reminded of the challenges mountaineers go through on their summit journey.
| @ Thukla Pass |
The weather changed and suddenly it started drizzling with light snowfall. All of us took our time to wear our rain gear/ponchos. We spent time taking videos and photos here. After the tiring climb we needed a few minutes break before continuing to hike towards Lobouche. While the whole group was busy taking group pictures, I realised Shobita was not to be seen. We tried to see around but couldn’t locate her. Someone then told, she has already started walking and is on the trail and Sonam dai was with her.
Soon all of us also started walking. By now it got very cloudy and the intensity of snowfall also increased. The trail was getting slippery and the visibility was very low. We had to walk more carefully. The last thing we want is a fall or an ankle sprain. This was a completely different kind of adventure - walking at that altitude through snowfall and gusty winds, surrounded by nothing but towering mountains and a vast carpet of snow, as we silently made our way in a single file.
It was getting quite slippery, Dorchi dai helped us wear the crampons. I didn’t realise how difficult it can be to put on the crampons on the shoe. Dorchi dai had to take off his gloves and in biting cold with slippery hands, helped us add crampons to our shoes. While crampons helped us avoid slipping it came with it own challenge. We had to avoid walking with them on stones or any hard surface. Due to this the our pace further reduced - not that we were walking any fast.
We were walking and walking, yet there was no sign of Lobuche. Imagine a sea of snow everywhere, trekker here and there and no other sign of humanity and you are walking hours like this...
Lobouche is a tiny village – a village largely built to cater to trekkers. There were very few tea houses here. It was hard to see any signs until we actually reached the place. I was tired and wanted to take off all the layers of clothing. Finally around 5pm we reached ‘Oxygen Tea house’ our stay at Lobouche. We could now take off our day backpacks and atleast a couple of layers. Hot GLT and the lit bukhari felt like heaven. This is the funny part, in few minutes all the tiredness is gone and then you discussing what games should be play. I think the anxiety of whether you will make it adds to the tiredness.
| Oxygen Tea House |
After a hot cup of GLT and placing dinner orders, we were allotted our rooms. Sam told to check out the views outside the tea house. The clouds had cleared giving way to clear sky and the mountains were right in our face. Literally, these huge snow-covered mountains were right infront of us shining in the sunlight. WHAT BEAUTY!!! SPEECHLESS!!!
Our rooms were on the first floor. The rooms very cozy with two beds and a table. They had also provided thick blankets. At this altitude, there was no provision attached bathrooms - only common toilets (western). Due to freezing condition, the toilets and washbasin didn’t have running water here. A huge tub filled with water was placed inside every washroom. Even this was a luxury at this altitude. Ofcourse there was no question of bathing in this cold. Even brushing was a difficult task. We saved a little bit from our drinking hot water, mixed it with cold water and used it for brushing.
The rooms were cold. We put our stuff, changed into thermals and went back to the common area for warmth. There are very few tea houses in Lobouche and Gorakshep, because of this the tea houses here are crowded. When we went back to the common area, it was already full with trekkers. Many of them had huddled around the bhukari, some of them were playing games, writing their journals, chit-chatting – very lively environment.
We started playing our usual card games. A few of them were playing UNO. Pankaj started to feel a little uneasy. He had slight headache. We both moved out of the game and went around the bhukari. Megha was carrying some herbal oil and asked Pankaj to apply it on his forehead. She had some amazing stuff – fully prepared for all kinds of pains and aches. After applying that oil Pankaj felt a bit better. Altitude has a toll on the body. Soon, Yogesh also left the game and joined us near the bhukari. He was also experiencing headache and nausea. Sanjeev was also feeling a bit uneasy. While we were all sitting around the bhukari, Sam checked our SPO2 levels. All of us very doing good w.r.t SPO2. We were just tired after a long and strenuous day.
While relaxing around the bhukari we met a couple from Bangalore. Got to know from them that due to the US-Isarel-Iran war and uncertainty most of the trekkers in their group had cancelled last minute and it was just the two of them along with a guide who had come on this trek. War had an impact on the peak trekking season in Nepal.
It was soon dinner time. We had dinner, followed by briefing on next day’s plan. The hot water got expensive as we climbed higher. With the kind of weather we were in, all of us needed more hot water. So, more bottles of hot water to be filled post dinner. All of us were super tired. We went back to our rooms which were very cold by now. The blankets weren’t sufficient to address the cold. We decided to use the sleeping bags for the first time on this trek. I still felt cold even with the sleeping bag, hot water bag, layer of thermals, fleece, woolen cap. Very soon I heard Pankaj’s heavy breathing. Realised he had already fallen asleep. I was feeling very cold and couldn’t fall asleep easily. I also woke-up a couple of times because of cold. But even with all this, I felt rested when I woke up in the morning.



