Bryce National Park - A Journey Through Nature's Wonders across American Southwest

September 15th: Drive from Zion to Bryce Canyon

The drive from Zion National Park (ZNP) to Bryce National Park (BNP) is about 90miles (2 ½ hrs drive). Most part of this drive is through the ZNP. The drive is beautiful with open landscape and huge rocky mountains. After an hour or so into the drive, we start to see the rocky mountains which are grey/cement color on the top and shades of red in the lower layers. We thought we had reached Bryce. Little did we know what was waiting.

As we got closer to the BNP, we passed through the red rock landscapes – these are the Red Canyons. We arrived at Bryce Amphitheater just in time for a magical sunset over the hoodoos. Though we had seen plenty of pictures of BNP, the view we saw with our eyes was beyond imagination. It is hard to imagine the size and scale of the rock formations. Unlike the other national parks, the formations here are below the ground level. We were 8000 feet above sea level and instead of looking up we had to look down to see the formations. 

 

On one side we had the last rays of sun shining into the hoodoos and on the other side the super moon was raising. This is was completely mesmerising. We spent some time at the sunset point and drove to our hotel.

For this night, our stay was at Red Ledges Inn, a 15 min drive from the BNP. Most national parks honor the darksky and with no large towns around these parks it gets pretty dark once the sun sets. Red Ledges Inn was a simple hotel (more of a motel on the highway). By the time we checked-in and got our keys it was already 8PM. Most restaurants here close by 9PM, so we decided to grab dinner before we go to our room.

We had pasta for dinner at the nearby Charles Restaurant. Food was better than what we expected.  Post dinner we headed to our room. For some reason the keys didn’t work. By now the reception was closed. So we had to call the shift contact person to help us get in. After some wait we were finally in our room. Tired after a long day of hikes and travel, we were ready to crash. A lesson from this experience – always check if the room keys are functioning before reception closes.

September 16th: Hiking and Exploring Bryce Canyon

A simple breakfast of bagels, yogurt, muffins, and fruit was a great way to start before heading to our first stop Sunrise Point in BNP. The combo trail of Queens Garden & Navajo Loop is a 2.9 miles / 4.6 KMs trail and takes about 3 hours. This trail combines the open views and unique hoodoos of the Queen's Garden Trail with the iconic switchbacks and towering canyon walls of the Navajo Loop Trail.

 

 

Though the hike can be started either from sunrise or sunset point, we started ours at sunrise point. The combination of towering hoodoos and narrow canyons made the hike truly unforgettable. It’s unimaginable what wind and water can do to the rocks. The views and colors in the morning were very different from what we had seen the previous evening at sunset. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The descend on the Queens Garden trail is gradual. On this trail we see some beautiful color hoodoos and windows. We also cross a couple of naturally formed arches. At the end of Queens Garden trail, there are two paths on the Navajo trail. Though the Wall Street trail is a little strenuous, it is unquestionably the prettiest path.

The ascent here is through some narrow canyons. One gets to first-hand experience the height of the narrow canyons and also the cool wind gushing through them. It great that there are well documented trails and one can pick based on their interest and endurance. Otherwise, on hikes like these where the hike starts with the descent followed by ascent, it's very easy to keep walking down without realising that we need to climb that much up.😅

A short walk along the Rim Trail brought us back to our car at sunrise Point. We then headed to the visitor center for a 20-minute movie on Bryce’s seasons, followed by a brief exhibit tour. The movie was worth the time. This also gave us a good break after our hike. BNP is one of the prettiest of the national parks. Though many people visit BNP for half a day, it is good to spend a night here to soak into its beauty.

 

For lunch, we tried Valhalla Pizza in BNP, which offered some good vegetarian options. After a long hike, having yummy pizza and refreshing drink while sitting on a picnic bench under a huge tree was bliss. 

Post lunch we stopped at Mossy Cave. Nothing fancy about this trail. It's a short and easy trail leading to a serene waterfalls with super cold water and a cave. With this it was end of yet another amazing national park and time to move to our next destination Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyons.

Hoover Dam & Zion National Park - A Journey Through Nature's Wonders across American Southwest

September 14th: Hoover Dam & Zion National Park

Our next stop was Hoover Dam (HD). We picked some take away breakfast from Starbucks at the rental at Las Vegas airport, picked our rental car and started our drive. HD is about 45 min drive from Las Vegas airport.

Hoover Dam

Our first stop was the walk across the Hoover Dam View Bridge. It's a 5 min walk from the car parking to the bridge. Though it was hot, the strong wind made it tolerable. We got some breathtaking views of the dam and the Colorado River from the Dam View Bridge.

Plant Tour

 

Following this, we parked our car at the visitor center and purchased tickets to Plant Tour, a 30 min guided tour. The tour starts with a short movie covering the history of the dam, followed by the guided tour to the generators through the tunnels. This short tour, gives a good overview of the dam.

Post the tour, we walked on the dam. The dam is so deep, it's quite scary when we bend to see at the view points. We then grabbed a quick lunch at the visitor center cafe. They did have a couple of vegetarian options which was a relief of us.

 

 

After spending about 3 hours at the Hoover dam, we set off on a scenic drive towards Zion National Park (ZNP). ZNP is about 190 miles - 3 hour drive from HD. ZNP is in Utah and in different timezone than Las Vegas (Nevada). The drive is through vast open landscape pretty much nothing around. 

Drive to Zion National Park

All national parks in USA have an entry fee. We can either pay per national park or buy a annual pass at 80$ which will give access to all the 63 national parks. Since we were planning to visit multiple national parks, purchasing the annual pass was best. The annual pass can be purchased at any national park or REI stores. Once pass gives access to one car/people in the car. 

Zion Lodge is the only place within the national park. One needs to book very early to get accommodation here. There are a bunch of good options in Springdale which is the close to ZNP and easily accessible by shuttle.  

Bumbleberry Inn, Springdale

Around sunset, we arrived at the charming Bumbleberry Inn in Springdale, our stay for the night. The orange/red colors of setting sun added more to beauty to the rocky mountains of ZNP. After checking in, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Oscar's Café, indulging in the local flavors. A quick stop at Sol Market allowed us to stock up on snacks and essentials for our road trip before a restful night.S

September 15th: Exploring Zion National Park

Morning started with a hot & yummy breakfast at the Inn. They have a nice cafe where our complimentary breakfast was served. After breakfast we picked trekking poles from the Inn. Most lodgings here provide complimentary trek poles which are to be returned at the end of the day after the hike.

Springdale shuttle stop to ZNP visitor center was right opposite the Inn. We tool the shuttle to ZNP visitor center and there boarded the ZNP shuttle.  These shuttles are every 5-10 min and are most convenient to access all the points on ZNP. Infact, ZNP can be explored only via the shuttle. 

While restrooms and water filling stations are available at all ZNP shuttle stops, there are no food joints/cafes on any stops other than the visitor center and at Zion Lodge. So good to carry food depending on how much time you want spend in the park.

ZNP scenic drive is one of the most beautiful drives and is only accessible by the shuttle. Choose a window seat to get some amazing views on this scenic drive. 

Our first stop on the ZNP shuttle was Stop #6. We planned to do the lower and middle emerald pools on the Grotto/Kayenta trail. This is approximately 2.5 miles/4 KMs easy hike and it took us about 2hrs to complete.

We planned the Emerald pool hike in the first half of the day to avoid the heat. Heat in south-west America is at a different level. The sun is sharp and the wind is cool. So cap/hat, sun glasses, water and light jacket are a must when in outdoors.

 

 

On this trail we got some great views of the gigantic rocky mountains and a thin stream of virgin river flowing along the trail path. Unlike the view points, hiking gives an opportunity to get fully immersed in the surroundings and be part of it.

Emerald Pool

 Emerald pools are nothing but a tiny pool of water formed from the flowing water. Because of the moss/algae in the water, the pools look green and hence the name. There is nothing great about the pools as such, it's a great break-point on the hikes as the water flowing over the rocks to form these pools is very cool and refreshing.

The hike offered us beautiful views of Zion’s waterfalls and pools. We spent some time at the pools soaking in the surrounding and started hiking back to the trail head. The trails here are rocky, uneven and muddy. Having good shoes and trekking pole helped.

Unlike the trails in India, the trails here have no litter, there are washrooms, water and rest area facilities, people are mindful about co-hikers, nobody is playing loud music and more important no place is as crowded as in India. Hiking experience in USA is very different and serene. To get a similar experience in India, we will have to hike an unknown trail :)

 

 

 

After a small snack break, we headed to our next hiking - 'The Narrows'. This is a 16 mile hike in the Virgin river. The trail starts from the last stop of the shuttle - the Temple of Sinawava. From here it's a 1.2 mile / 2 KMs Riverside walk (mud pathway) before we enter the river/narrows.  Doing the entire 16 mile hike is full day activity of walking in waist level water. Generally people do the riverside walk and then walk about 30-40 mins in the water/narrow and return. We decided to follow the same trend.

 

 

 

While early mornings have lesser crowd on the trail and the narrows, the water will be super cold. It is better to hike in the afternoon, when the water temperature is slightly higher. It was great that we planned this in the afternoon, the water was slightly cold but not bad. We hiked on the riverside walk and walked in narrows for 40 mins. We walked in the water until it reached our knee length and returned. Walking in fresh and cool flowing water between the huge rocky mountains was an amazing experience. 

 

 

 

Water proof shoes and socks are available on rent at the visitor center. However, we did the narrows with our regular shoes (sneakers). Some people were managing with sandals as well. The water bed is full of small stones, which are slippery in some areas. A good pair of shoes (even if not water proof) and trekking pole helps a lot to navigate into the water. Also, wearing dry fit clothes works out better. We had also carried an extra pair of footwear to change into post our hike. 

Narrows

It took us about 3 hours to return to the shuttle stop. It was around 4pm when we returned to the visitor center. We were super hungry and went to the first cafe we came across. Late lunch at the Zion Canyon Brew Pub was a perfect break before heading back to Springdale. We had some amazing Mexican food. Since it's very close to the visitor center, this place is very crowded and the service can get slow. We had to wait for 20 mins for our food to arrive. There are a bunch of other restaurants at a couple of minutes walk from the visitor center. We saw them only after we finished our lunch when we headed back to Springdale.

We dropped our trekking poles at the Inn and started our drive to our next destination - Bryce National Park (BNP).